I know I haven’t been online much in these days and some of you haven’t heard from me for ages, but let me make it up for you now and tell you what I’ve been up to in the past 7 days. And, dad, do not worry too much when I don’t call or my mobile is switched off for a while. They aren’t very good with Internet and mobiles here in Australia. Sometimes you have no service as soon as you drive half an hour out of the coastal urban district. And Internet is just another story to tell. Do you guys remember what dial up is? Yeah, exactly, the slow up-and-down connection we had back home at the end of the 90s :-) We have it here! Finally, after all we had to go through in the past 2 weeks to explain our flat mate Nick the Tarzan (because he climbs palm trees to get home when he has no keys and always walks around half-naked in boardies) that he can’t get away with no Internet at home.
However, no Internet and mobile reception can sometimes be pretty nice and relaxing for a while. For example, on Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island, about 300 km north from Brisbane, half an hour ferry ride from Hervey Bay. That’s where I spent the amazing 5 days before Christmas after the 5-day working roster the week before. The thing that I really like about working holiday and casual employment is that you can combine work and travel just the way you want. You work when you need to make some money, and you travel when you have enough of it to spend. And even though the reason of this Fraser Island adventure wasn’t an unbearable need for a break from work, it was really nice and relaxing, a perfect way to recharge batteries for the next roster, and of course for the massive Christmas and New Year’s parties. The idea to go traveling came up a few weeks ago, the day Paul left Gold Coast to head back home in Sydney. I’m glad it wasn’t the day of saying goodbyes and he flew back soon to travel up to Fraser.
Our Fraser trip began on Tuesday morning, December 19, when Paul rented a car (automatic! *lol* yeah, let’s give him a break, it’s difficult with the left-hand traffic :)) at Coolangatta Airport and drove up to Surfers to pick me up from home. Sweet. We didn’t waste time on the GC and left for Hervey Bay, where we arrived about 5 hours later after several stops at Maccas (read: McDonald’s). Paul’s fault, he’s addicted to junk food! :) Everything goes from Big Mac to Subway sandwich. He says he’s a good cook though, which I can’t tell as I haven’t tried.. yet :) Anyways, his purchase of the day was Maccas frozen Fanta. This pink drink that tastes like frozen tap water with some Fanta flavor. No comments, as long as he was happy and driving on the right side of the road. The night in Hervey Bay was quieter than we had expected for a tourist place in the high season, which we didn’t mind as it made it pretty easy to find accommodation and have dinner at a local Chinese restaurant without queuing for hours. The first hostel we walked in on Esplanade (the first street back from beach in almost every coastal town) was full but the reception lady was nice and friendly and called another recently opened hostel around the corner. That place named NEXT was awesome (highly recommended!). Great location in the heart of Hervey Bay, 2 minutes from beach, brand new, clean and comfortable, with friendly staff, and most of all a great value for the money spent. With $60 you get a double room with own bathroom, soft towels and a nice bed made up with clean and fresh linen. The girl at reception suggested a few places for dinner from which we decided to try the Chinese with a hot buffet. A
nd we didn’t have to be disappointed. The place was lovely, not too packed, and they had paper cloths and felt-tip pens on each table in case you wanted to leave a message behind. You can see the results of our two creative minds in the picture here beside. The rest of the dinner time passed by reading some brochures we had taken with us and making plans for the next days, including a tour on Fraser Island. As the hostel was lovely and we had more than a day, we decided to stay there for another night and check out some of the nice places in the neighborhood on Wednesday, and take the early morning boat to Fraser on Thursday. Great plans made, we walked back towards the hostel to have a beer in the live-music corner bar right across the street, which again looked surprisingly quiet on Tuesday.
The plans for the next morning were a quick brekky on the beach and a drive down to Rainbow Beach, close to the southern tip of Fraser Island. Looking at the map, you could say it looks roug
hly about 50 km south from Hervey Bay, but because of the distances here are so vast, we ended up driving about 120 km there and another that much back to the Bay. After a short stop half-way down to the beach, we decided to give Paul a little break and I drove down myself. The 1st time on the left side, probably the 1001st time with an automatic car, I soon realized that driving is driving, just a little strange when your reflexes work the opposite way and you continuously switch on wipers instead of indicators. But you quickly get used to it, as with all the other things that look, feel, or sound so odd at the beginning. And I have to say this: we did arrive safe
and sound, even though I was driving :-) While we stopped to change seats, we also noticed a pair of long footprints on the sandy path beside the road, clearly belonging to nobody else but a native Aussie, i.e. kangaroo. Rainbow Beach was beautiful, although we probably didn’t see the best part of it at Double Island Point and the Cherry Venture shipwreck as you gotta hire a 4WD (four-wheel drive) to cruise down the beach to the national park area otherwise non-reachable. The name Rainbow Beach derives from its colored sand cliffs, where its pandanus tree-lined beaches and red-hued cliffs arc round Wide Bay. You can also enjoy the view from the Carlo Sandblow, a 120m-high dune on the hill overlooking this tiny town
with only 1050 inhabitants, where the national championships in paragliding are held every January. You can find some great camping grounds right on the beach at the end of Tourist Drive, where boats leave for Fraser Island from Inskip Point, with shallow water and heaps of crab holes in the sand (see the picture). Amazing little creatures. Don’t know if they also crawl into your tents at night if you camp there. Preferred not to try on my skin and drove back to Hervey Bay to spend another night at the cozy Next instead, with too large pizzas for dinner from Domino’s.
Thursday, the big day on Fraser Island that definitely is a place of exceptional beauty, or as our tour guide Alan said, it’s Nature’s ecological excellence. We woke up early, grabbed a few yummie pastries from Brumby’s and jumped on the boat at Urangan Boat Harbour at 6:45 in the morning. We had booked a 1-day Lake McKenzie tour ($155 pp) with the Kingfisher Bay Resort, one of the two main resorts on the island, but were planning to stay there overnight and come back the day after. Nice resort, definitely a nice spot of the island, but a little rip off. The regular price $285 pn room only gives you nothing but a bed, customer satisfaction and meeting or exceeding customer needs probably comes at extra cost, as well as requesting late check-out, breakfast or other amenities usually included in the rate. But then again the tour with Alan, our ranger guide, was really nice and made our day. He drove us through the forests and sand in a 4WD, at the same time continuously telling us stories about the island, its history, culture, landscape, flora and fauna – things we probably wouldn’t have learnt, at least not to this extent, if we had hired a 4WD to explore the island by ourselves. While you drive, keep a look out for Australia’s purest bred dingoes as you might see some of the 100 to 200 still left on the island (we saw one!). Alan emphasized a few things that make Fraser exceptional.
The sand on Fraser, surprisingly, supports fresh-water lakes ringed by white, sandy beaches perched in the tops of the dunes and fast-flowing streams, perfect places to relax and swim. This is the only place in the world where tall rainforests are found growing on sand dunes at elevations of over 200 meters. The famous Seventy-Five Mile Beach is flanked by strikingly colored sand cliffs and desert-like sand blows. The island has a rich cultural history. Known to local Butchulla Aborigines as K’gari (Paradise), the island takes its European name from James and Eliza Fraser, the captain of the
Stirling Castle and his wife shipwrecked on the island in 1836. European settlers soon awoke to the value of Fraser’s timber and cleared tracts of rainforest in the search for turpentine (satinay), a waterproof wood prized by shipbuilders all around the world. Only in the late 20th century the focus shifted from exploitation to protection, and the island was listed as a World Heritage area, and is protected for all to appreciate and enjoy.
The Lake McKenzie tour starts and finishes at Kingfisher Bay resort. Obviously, so you could do your last minute purchases or relax with a coffee at the café before you depart on your island tour or head back to Hervey Bay. Tourist trap, they ain’t stupid! Rip off, rip off, rip off. But the rest of the day is great. You get to spend some time at Lake McKenzie, Fraser’s most popular, and probably the most beautiful fresh-water lake, where you can swim in the pH neutral crystal clear waters. They will then take you for a stroll through Central Station, the former logging camp, and the rainforest along the banks of Wanggoolba Creek, home to the giant king fern. The 45-minute walk takes you to Pile Valley with tall satinay tree
s, the same that were logged to line the banks of the Suez Canal. You’ll have buffet lunch at Eurong Beach Resort on Seventy-Five Mile Beach and drive along the beach up to the wreck of the cruise liner Maheno, which came ashore in 1935, and the Pinnacles colored sands. The tour ends with a swim in the fresh waters of Eli Creek that flows swiftly into the ocean, and if you are lucky and on time, you’ll have a look at one of the massive sand dunes from a lookout on the way back to the resort.
Done with the guided tour, we checked in at Kingfisher and had a relaxing afternoon nap in our room overlooking the jetty where people were waiting for the boat back to the mainland, and where we should’ve been as well at the end of the tour if we hadn’t sneaked away to stay on the island :-) To make matters worse (actually better! :P), we also got a bottle of white wine and some chocolate cookies, too enjoyable to walk out of the room for dinner, for which we later paid heaps of money just to have a few entrees as they had finished serving the main course (always before time). I’m telling you, the wine here is suspicious. But no worries, after the Chinese buffet on the first night and the Domino’s pizza on the second night, a few small prawns were good for a change. And as the Germans say,
wir leben von Luft und Liebe :-)
We got back to Hervey Bay, and of course back to Next, on Friday night, after a lazy day by the pool at Kingfisher, a little walk up to the lookout and no proper lunch, because.. you know.. the chefs had finished serving food BEFORE time. And when there’s no food, you start drinking :-) Ruski Vodka Lemon was the drink of the day, and the night in the good old corner bar right across the street, where we finally had some fish and chips, or to be honest, quite some fish and chips, and rolled back to the hostel to fall asleep.. Or what did you think?! :-) Actually we read Lonely Planet
for a bedtime fairytale, and made plans for the last day of the Fraser trip.. And decided to spend Saturday down on Sunshine Coast in Noosa, one of the East Coast’s most exclusive resorts and a major foodies’ mecca with its trendy café latte landscape, half-way back to Brisbane. However, a 5-minute drive along the chock-a-block Hasting St was enough to wanna escape from the crowds and hide at the far end of the Sunshine Beach, south from Noosa, where the waves hit the rocky end of the little hill dividing the main beach from a smaller and wilder one on the other side of
the hill that you can climb.. as we did. The night took us back to Brisbane where Ash and Arpi were waiting for us to go out for a few drinks together in some of the cocktail bars of Fortitude Valley. The good old Valley, which was our home for 3 weeks at the beginning of our Aussie adventure with Ann. Was great to be back ‘home’.. even though for one night only.
The End :-)
P.S. Thanks, Paul, for being an amazing travel mate, great friend.. and more. You are special!